After an unsuccessful attempt by a burger chain, a new Japanese restaurant has taken up residence on Swan Street in a part of the street that has almost completely changed in recent years. The Modern Eatery – House of Aburi Sushi is a sister to two restaurants in Perth, and that foundation might be part of the reason that a few months on it is already more successful than the previous tenant.
The aspects I like about TME speak volumes of what I don’t like in many casual Japanese restaurants and cafes around Australia. Those behind this place have put some thought into the menu, and the fitout. It doesn’t feel cheap, but it is still casual. The space isn’t plain, with some nice high tables to make it feel like a place to eat, and not a takeaway joint or foodhall.
Most importantly, the couple of times I’ve been for lunch I have found some good quality food, that is reasonably priced. The omakase nigiri consists of fresh sashimi, that goes beyond the usual tuna and salmon to include some kingfish and snapper. The rice is good, and the wasabi is about right.
The handmade sushi is well constructed, although the size is a little too large in my opinion. It is a reasonably classic combination (in these parts), with the ingredients all well prepared. The chicken katsu bento is again good value, though the star of the bento is not far above average.
With so many average Japanese outlets across the city and the suburbs, any place that is marginally better will get some attention. The combination of nicely prepared food with some diversity, a comfortable and good looking space to eat, and some friendly service, should see this push from Perth over east see some degree of success.